{"id":8962,"date":"2024-01-07T23:42:12","date_gmt":"2024-01-08T09:42:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/svtoucan.com\/svtblog\/?p=8962"},"modified":"2024-01-07T23:42:12","modified_gmt":"2024-01-08T09:42:12","slug":"two-years-in-review","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/svtoucan.com\/svtblog\/?p=8962","title":{"rendered":"Two Years in Review"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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It\u2019s just over two years ago that our madcap idea of living on a remote island in Raja Ampat started to take shape. During that time we\u2019ve literally shed blood, sweat, and tears to get where we are now, but I think we\u2019re finally at the stage where we’re really starting to enjoy this magical and spectacular location.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s been a crazy and unbelievably busy two years, not just getting Toucan\u2019s Retreat up and running but also dealing with the sale of our beloved Toucan (yes, we still miss her) and several medical issues, including a melanoma for Bruce, a knee replacement for me, and more recently, a cracked rib for Bruce. And then, of course, almost one year ago there was the devastating fire that destroyed our kitchen, workshop, all our equipment, and almost destroyed our dream – were it not for the generosity of so many wonderful people who got us back on our feet again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Our dreams went up in smoke – only to be revived by so many generous people<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

So, has it been worth it? Absolutely.  We\u2019re so privileged to be able to live in what many people describe as \u201cThe Last Paradise\u201d. The abundance of life here is extraordinary, both above and below the water.  To be able to walk out of our front door and find turtles, sharks, cuttlefish, manta rays and a myriad of beautiful fish and corals is simply stunning. We\u2019re diving and snorkelling most days, and starting to get to grips with our new underwater camera equipment. There\u2019s lots to learn, but that\u2019s half the fun!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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photography @ Bruce Jameson<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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photography @ Di Fitzgerald<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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photography@ Bruce Jameson<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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photography @ Di Fitzgerald<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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photography @ Di Fitzgerald<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Unfortunately our diving has come to a bit of a halt since Bruce slipped getting in the boat and cracked a rib (or two?) just before Christmas – being immobile is not his forte, but he\u2019s had to learn to rest and move slowly so that\u2019s not such a bad thing.  Luckily we have a reasonably well-stocked first aid kit so the strong painkillers have come in handy. And it\u2019s not a bad location for some R & R\u2026..<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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So what we have learnt from living on an island for much of the past two years?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If I do say so myself, I\u2019ve learnt to make pretty decent sourdough bread from scratch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We now recognise the calls of many of the local birds, including the sea eagles, hornbills, pigeons, willie wagtails, and our favourite, Elvis the palm cockatoo.  He\u2019s gradually getting bolder and more used to us, and we often have conversations while he\u2019s down on the beach searching for beach almonds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Strut your stuff Elvis!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve learnt the basics of Bahasa Indonesia, but we\u2019ve still got a long way to go before we\u2019re fluent.  It\u2019s a work in progress\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Obviously, our time on the boat has taught us to be resilient and mostly self-sufficient, and we\u2019ve become pretty good at transferring those skills to the island in terms of solving problems and McGuyvering things that break. It\u2019s a long way to the nearest shops\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve learnt that tourists – and especially German tourists (apologies to anyone I offend) – are pains in the arse who mostly have no respect for private property.  We didn\u2019t expect to be chasing people off our property as much as we have, despite having signs up.  Coming this week – bigger and better signage!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019ve learnt that trying to grow herbs and vegetables on a tropical sandy island is incredibly challenging, and my efforts are pretty pathetic to date.\u00a0 Usually when you think of pests in the garden, you think of slugs and snails and caterpillars. Here, it\u2019s grasshoppers and crabs, and they\u2019re hungry little buggers that\u2019ll strip a plant in a matter of hours or chew it off at the stem.\u00a0 I\u2019m using garlic and soapy spray and building mesh enclosures, but I\u2019m not sure I\u2019m winning this particular battle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Attack of the grasshoppers!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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These crabs are only little, but voracious<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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My precious tomato plant in its temporary insect screen enclosure – I have my doubts about whether there’ll be a tomato harvest<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The basil, chillies and coriander seem to do better growing on the wall.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve learnt (painfully) which soft corals sting the most when you accidentally brush up against them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Looks like a Kiwi silver fern and brings you to your knees like an All-Black. Damn, they sting!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve learnt that even though we have a Telecommunications tower only 14 NM away and all the fancy equipment to draw the signal in, it\u2019s not worth much if the guy operating the generator at the other end sells the benzene (petrol) to make a quick buck. Bring on Starlink to Indonesia!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve also learnt that the cheap Chinese hose clamps that are the only option to buy here teach you the importance of double clamping everything after a clamp corrodes and you lose 1000 litres of water from your preciously made desalinator water supply…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve also discovered that the Saleo family have the power to decide who comes into the bay to dive with the mantas.  A few months ago it was getting out of hand – up to five or six phinisi liveaboards would be in the bay at any given time, sometimes up to 50 divers in the water, many of whom were behaving very badly by chasing and touching the mantas.  So Niko finally put his foot down, and declared that the manta site was closed until further notice.  We were very doubtful that the big boats would comply but amazingly they have, and we now have a beautifully peaceful bay once again. Let\u2019s hope it lasts, for our sakes and the mantas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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In the busy times, there were a ridiculous number of phinisis in the bay, all trying to dive with the mantas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019re learning (slowly) to chill out and take time to relax after a very busy and at times stressful two years. It\u2019s another work in progress\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Above all, we\u2019ve learnt to enjoy the beauty of simple things – the sunsets and sunrises, a baby shark swimming in the shallows, the glitter of a school of tiny fish leaping across the water, the majestic glide of the mantas, or a sea eagle fishing in the morning. To witness creation in all its glorious multicoloured variety is incredibly special and makes us feel humble and oh so grateful to be able to experience this wonderland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Peace on earth<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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the newest addition to the front yard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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and always – the majestic mantas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Before I wax too lyrical, here\u2019s a link to a video that our son, Rob, took when he and Teneile visited in November, showing Toucan\u2019s Retreat two years on, in its finished and upgraded state.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n