We’re on the hunt for the ‘Lurrve Lake’ – we know it’s around here somewhere but no-one’s been able to give us exact directions. So we leave Kalig and head for the island of Segaf where we think there might be a homestay to point us in the right direction.
We don’t find a homestay, but two out of three ain’t bad – on the way we spot the Geosite sign to the Love Lake, and at Segaf we discover a perfect, protected anchorage on the south side. There’s a superyacht already here, but it’s plenty big enough for two more little yachts! It’s not so deep and has a sandy bottom so we drop the anchor and then tie off back to the rock walls.
There’s some really interesting snorkelling here too – the shallows provide a nursery for myriads of baby fish, and I play hide-and-seek with a couple of well-camouflaged individuals. The deeper water is patrolled by schools of harmless but scary-looking bumphead parrot fish.
But we’re here to find love, romance, the Love Lake! We dinghy across the strait and find the well-marked entrance. Raja Ampat has done a great job with their tourist ‘geosites’ with solidly constructed jetties, walkways and steps up to the look-out at the top. Quite a lot of steps.
By the time we get to the top, there’s a lot of heavy breathing but not of the romantic kind, we’re more focused on not having a heart attack. But the pretty heart-shaped lagoon is worth the exercise and we’re happy to support the local economy with our tourist dollars.
We can’t help ourselves of course – there’s more diving to be had in this area and we experience one of our top three dives at Gorgonia Passage. It’s a magnificent drift dive through the passage between Wayilbatan and Walib Islands with the biggest gorgonian fans we’ve ever seen – up to 4 metres across! We like it so much we do it twice and it’s just as stunning the second time around.