Life in the Off Season

Since we started living here almost two years ago, we’ve never been in residence in the “off” season – the months of June, July, and August.  This is traditionally the low season for tourism due to the rain and strong southerly quadrant winds, with most of the liveaboard tourist boats moving to Komodo for this period. In 2022, we were back in Australia selling “Toucan”, and last year we were once again back in Australia while I recovered from my knee replacement surgery.  So this is a first for us, and it’s certainly been an interesting change.

We’re not unhappy about the lack of tourists, although there are still a few hardy souls walking the beach or trying to snorkel in the rough conditions. Most are Europeans, and it amazes me that people spend so much money to get here without doing their research on the climate at this time of year.

The weather has definitely been challenging.  In June it rained a LOT – almost every day and every night.  It certainly tested out our roofing, and after a few nights of dodging the leaks by squeezing onto the edge of the mattress or down the end of the bed, we decided that repairs were in order.  I’m pleased to say they’ve been successful and we now sleep comfortably when it’s raining.  

Fencey doing a great job of repairing our roof on a rare sunny day

Of course, the rain was welcome for the plants and I now have a bumper crop of chillies and kangkung (water spinach).  Even the recalcitrant banana plants are starting to grow, and the canoe planter is filling out with marigold seedlings.  Unsurprisingly, the grass has gone a bit crazy so we’ve put our push mower to the test and found it actually works quite well. How ridiculously suburban is that?!

The beginning of a bumper crop of chillies
The marigolds are coming along well, hopefully soon they’ll provide a colourful display
The pot plants are doing well too – aloe vera, hibiscus, and petunias are just some of the recent additions. I can’t plant them in the ground because occasionally we get big tides that come up and over the beach embankment
Bruce in the backyard with his mower!

July had less rain but a lot more wind from the south/south-east, making it difficult to find a suitable weather window to get to Sorong for our regular provisioning trips.  Our little speedboat is fine for local trips in calm weather, but its relatively flat bottom causes it to slam and buck like a rodeo steer in any sort of wave action, making it a not-so-fun ride.  So we try to put off the inevitable as long as possible – a month between trips is about our limit – and so far we’ve picked our windows pretty well but it often means starting out at dawn when conditions are still relatively benign.

Being so close to the equator, the temperature is a fairly consistent 27-30 degrees celsius all year round, but the wind chill factor makes it feel a lot cooler at this time of year. Our once-welcome cold shower at the end of the day was becoming a bit of an endurance test in these conditions, so we finally caved and bought ourselves a gas instant water heater for the shower.  Oh the bliss! Truthfully, it may only be used for a couple of months a year, but it’s a game-changer for comfort levels on those cooler days or after a long dive.

Ahhh…the little luxuries of life!

We’ve also discovered that we don’t have enough solar panels to effectively charge our batteries during this time of year, so we’ve been having to run the generator each morning and evening to keep the batteries topped up.  We’ve just installed two more solar panels, but eventually we’ll need a few more if we’re to avoid using the generator and all that extra fuel.

The really big news is that Starlink is now in Indonesia! Our internet has been atrocious, so of course we rushed to buy a Starlink unit and the dish is now installed on the headland with our solar panels and working like a charm. What a game-changer to have connectivity 24/7!

Our Starlink dish on the headland. We’re very happy to give the local Telkomsel service the flick.

We’re still diving when the weather allows, and we had a great time hanging out with some cool turtles at one of our favourite dive sites, Sawandarek, on my birthday in July.

The resident green turtle at Sawandarek – very tolerant of having her photo taken with divers
Off into the blue

And of course, the quest for nudibranchs and macro subjects continues – I’m just loving all these teeny tiny gorgeous works of nature, and it’s always exciting to spot something new on a dive.

Ardeadoris cruenta nudibranch – so very pretty
Two for the price of one! A ribbon eel and Hypselodoris tyroni
The “special handshake” of mating Nembrotha purpureolineata nudibranchs
A very pregnant Denise’s pygmy seahorse
A beautiful Goniobranchus leopardus
The macro photographer hard at work!
Doriprismatica stellata – looking like a prehistoric rhino in chainmail
another beautiful nudi – Chromodoris willani

The rest of the time we’ve been attending to maintenance jobs around the place (just like on a boat, there’s always something to fix), including gardening, and clearing the beaches of plastics and washed up logs.

Bruce fixing a broken step
The back beach looking a lot cleaner
..except for this monster of a tree trunk that washed up. Way too big to move and another reminder of why it’s so treacherous to travel at night in these waters.

During the past few months we haven’t been completely isolated – we’re always delighted to have visitors, whether they’re the human or non-human kind…

We love having the Raja Shelducks come to visit, looking like caped crusaders
Our resident palm cockatoo “Elvis” is becoming a little bolder
Finding this banded seasnake on the beach one morning was a bit of surprise! Apparently they come ashore to lay their eggs, so we’re now on the lookout for the babies..
A pretty and non-venomous tree snake
And a beautiful iridescent beetle
We also had a lovely visit (and a delicious lunch) from the Saleo family and friends

We’re especially grateful to visiting yachties who help us out -we’ve had a couple of yachts visit the bay recently, and Robin and Susy were kind enough to bring our new solar panels from Sorong on their motor cruiser “Salty Dawgz”. Thanks guys, it’s been great to enjoy your company over the last few days.

So no matter the season, life is never dull here, and every day is a new adventure!

16 Replies to “Life in the Off Season”

  1. Always read your posts with intrigue Di. Often in our thoughts and look forward to reading your blogs and seeing how you are. So glad to see you have recovered well from your knee surgery and you’ve weathered the rain storms that you hadn’t experienced before. That fixed leaky roof and a hot water shower is truly heaven on a stick. Love Elvis too – are you still playing music to him 😊? Such a beautiful bird. ❤️
    Rob and I escaped the Sydney winter and left Newport on 16th June (a day after my granddaughter’s 1st birthday which I wouldn’t have missed for quids) we hot kegged it with caravan in tow 1600 kilometres north to Agnes Water. We spent one night in Woolgoolga on the way up and caught up with an old girlfriend and Marita and Jamie Wilmot next night Cooroy cute little township just inland from Noosa then Agnes. That Bruce Highway definitely needs a fix up for sure. After a wonderful couple of weeks exploring Agnes and 1770, surging, swimming, fishing and working 😳 we have slowly been making our way south. Loved Bundaberg and surrounding areas – apparently apart for being famous for the Rum distillery, is a prime producer of an abundance of fruit and vegetables. An amazing agricultural society with of course scrumptious strawberries, sweet potatoes, avocados, macadamias- the list goes on . And the land so flat! We discovered an extinct volcano called The Hummock. The rich red and brown soils were formed from the basalt flow of the ancient volcano. No wonder everything grows so well and if course sugar cane everywhere. Also home to Bert Hinkler the Aviator who was the first person to fly from England to Australia. I could go on and on! Also Mon Repos home to the sea turtles. I’ve lost count how many kilometres we have ridden on our bikes. From Bundaberg to Hervey Bay which we loved and the whale watching just off of K’gari, Fraser Island was amazing! Hervey Bsy to Noosa to Cotton Tree and now for a brief visit to Main Beach. Off to Lennox Head and Yamba next, crescent Head abd Port Stephens and home in 1st September to get ready for our cruise to FP!! We arrive home then on October 12th for Rob to jump
    On another plane to fly to see Dean in Idaho specifically to meet his new granddaughter ❤️ hectic year. We’ve loved travelling albeit I think the Sydney winter followed us! The first few weeks were bitter in the mornings and evenings and the wind on the east coast was horrific. We have met a lot of people who have said this is the coldest winter ever in Queensland. Maybe we needed to go further up – just no time 🫢 In saying that , we have had some beautiful warm weather too up here whilst Sydney was probably about 6 to 8 degrees cooler. It’s 5am here and I’ve been wide awake since 3 🤷🏻‍♀️. You both look so happy and content. As you say everyday is another adventure ! Enjoy sending love to you both and hugs xx will write again soon! I hope I haven’t bored you haha x

    1. Thanks so much Pen, and for all your news. It sounds like you’ve had a wonderful trip north, and still many adventures to come. I have such fond memories of Yamba, my Dad had a house there and we loved the Christmas get-togethers with all the family. Your cruise to FP will undoubtedly be fabulous – time to get back to snorkelling again! Lots of love xx

  2. Hi Di. Nice to catch up with your life in paradise! Such amazing sea creatures you have in your underwater world, you could never tire of seeing them or snorkeling. Good decision on the hot water heater, it’s such a treat, we find that in the van, makes you feel fantastic. Keep up the good work in the garden! Great reward for effort.
    Hugs, Rosemary.

    1. Thanks Rosemary – yes, a little bit of hot water certainly feels like a treat, you’re quite right. I’m just about to embark on a new venture in the garden, hydroponics! Could be interesting so stay tuned! Hope you guys are well and enjoying life, lots of love from us both xx

  3. Looks so peaceful . Persistence has paid off in the garden , most impressed .
    Hot showers total winner .
    Love the photos of all your friendly neighbours on land and in the sea !
    Just had great family holiday in Fiji and to me reinforced love of tropical islands and their cultures .
    Lots of love Mia and the Pirate xxxxx

    1. Hi guys,
      We’ve been thinking about you and your time in Fiji – so glad it was wonderful (as it it wouldn’t be!). Yes, we love our tropical island, even in the off season xx

  4. Hi Di and Bruce
    Lovely to read your news and fantastic photos.
    We have news of our own too. We too are going on the same cruise as Brook and Adrienne time to pick up the snorkel again. It is a little bit poorly timed but then how could we predict when our house would finally be ready to move into . That has been a journey too large to mention here. Anyway when we get back from vacation we will move in. So looking forward to it.
    Meanwhile the guards are on duty.
    file:///var/mobile/Library/SMS/Attachments/99/09/22BD05FF-6D8A-4567-8A80-9BA350D0D646/IMG_3716.heic

    1. Hi Jackie, that’s very exciting news indeed! I’m sure you guys will have the best time in FP, and how wonderful to come back to your new home. I love the guards! xx

  5. I read your posts with interest Di. Thank you for sharing your journey. We four are at Marramarra Creek on the Hawkesbury at a delightful property only accessible +/- 2 hours of low tide. It’s so peaceful and far cry from frenetic, chaotic Hanoi two weeks ago. Take care xx

  6. Oh Di- the sunset says it all- paradise. Love the pics of the small sea critters especially the seahorse. Take care of your self and will be thinking of you. x

  7. Wonderful pictures!We have had a very wet cold winter on the East coast of Australia this year so you did well to stay there.

  8. What a lovely life and the sand between your toes. Your submarine photos continue to amaze. We are off to Melbourne tomorrow to see Adrienne’s family and a couple of old friends. Then up to Canberra and Parliament House to launch a world first Haemochromatosis Registry. Then home for a few days and onto Perth for a Medical conference and catch up with old mates then back and on to Tahiti for cruise around the Society and Friendly isles and back in time for tea as they say! It has been a cold winter here made worse by high winds and the chill factor. Heaven knows what our electricity bill is going to be like! Lovely as always to hear your news.

    1. Hi Brook & Adrienne,
      Thanks for your lovely comments. It sounds like you’re keeping very busy. All the best for the Haemochromatosis Registry launch, a great initiative. How is Adrienne’s new hip coming along? We’re envious of your French Polynesia cruise, one of our favourite places on our travels. Hopefully the weather will start warming up in Sydney soon! love to you both xx

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