No, we’re not back in Queensland folks – this is the OTHER famous Coral Coast, on the southern side of the main island, Viti Levu. Like the rest of the island, the south coast is ringed by fringing reef so getting to any of the anchorages here involves reef entries through the passes. The other challenge of getting south-east is the wind, which usually blows consistently and strongly from, you guessed it, the south-east. So the only option to get where we want to go is pick a time when the wind is light so we’re not bashing into short, sharp seas. The downside is that means….dah, dah – motoring….the skipper’s dirty word. But the lure of being able to do the famous shark dive at Beqa was enough to keep the grumbles to an occasional murmur (well, that’s all I heard with my headphones on anyway). Continue reading “Cruising The Coral Coast – Viti Levu, Fiji”

They call it the Nirvana of surfing – the world-famous ‘Cloudbreak’, apparently one of the 10 most challenging left-hand surf breaks in the world, and which on its’ biggest days can undo the best of the best. We’d heard about it (it’s impossible not to, there’s even a ‘Cloudbreak’ store in Denarau selling all manner of souvenirs and the inevitable T-shirts bragging of survival), we’d got within coo-ee of it when we went out to Namotu Island, but being well past any chance of mixing it with the surfer dudes we weren’t expecting to get up close and personal with the mighty break itself. Continue reading “Surfin’ Safari – ‘Cloudbreak’ Fiji”

Denarau is a world apart from the rest of Fiji – a gated community of big hotel complexes, big boats, and big business. It’s a giant beehive of tourism, with charter boats buzzing backwards and forwards ferrying guests from their swish hotels to the outer islands for a day of snorkeling and sunbathing. Every boat welcomes their guests aboard with traditional Fijian singing, accompanied by guitars and ukeleles, so the harbour resounds with the sound of music and the ubiquitous “BULA” shouted ever louder until the hosts are satisfied their guests are truly enthusiastic about their trip. It seems that not only does money talk here, it also sings and shouts. Continue reading “The Others – Denarau, Fiji”

Fiji seems to be the major interchange hub on the Pacific blue highway – throughout the year boats congregate here from across the Pacific, others come from New Zealand or Australia, but as the cyclone season nears everyone has to make the same decision – “where to next?”. And there’s plenty of choices – some decide to stay in Fiji, many go back to New Zealand or travel west to Australia, and others go north out of the cyclone zone and into Micronesia. We’ve grown accustomed to the ebb and flow of cruising relationships, but it’s never easy saying farewells, particularly when we have no idea how long it will be until the next reunion. So we don’t say goodbye…. we say ‘a bientot’, ‘see you later’, ‘until next time’ and hope our paths cross again before too long…. Continue reading “The Parting Glass – Viti Levu, Fiji”

My goodness. Isn’t life interesting? One week we’re decked out in all our finery, joyfully celebrating our son’s marriage, the next week we’re back to t-shirts and shorts at the hot and wind-less Vuda Point Marina feeling somewhat frazzled… Continue reading “The Circle – Vuda Point Marina, Viti Levu”

There are moments in life that are so profound, so exquisitely joyful, they are almost indescribable. The birth of both boys were two such times, the most recent was the marriage of our eldest son, Nick, to his beautiful bride Sally, on the beach in Palm Cove. What a perfect setting and a perfect day to witness the beginning of their married life together. It was a glorious life-affirming, love-affirming celebration surrounded by family and friends, and there was nary a dry eye in the house! Continue reading “Wedding Day – Palm Cove, Queensland”